The simple answer to this question is "no." Rare is the true beginner riding student who shows up to their lesson with their own horse.
There are many thriving lesson programs that cater to intermediate and advanced riders. Some specialize in upper-level riders, amateurs, or competitive riders exclusively—what you might call the "cream of the crop." Riders in these groups have already committed to the costs of riding, progression, and often horse ownership. While the financial investment is significant, the journey of advancing in riding encompasses more than just money. Therefore, this post does not dismiss instructors or programs that do not cater to beginners.
However, where do these advancing riders come from without beginners? Over 3,000,000 babies are born in the United States each year, and not a single one arrives with the knowledge of how to ride a horse.
I've said it before and I'll say it again: every person who rides a horse started as a beginner, whether they ride at Olympic levels or compete in events like the Tevis Cup. I'll go out on a limb and state that even Buck Brannaman was a beginner once, albeit briefly. ðŸ¤
Some individuals have a shorter stay in the beginner category than others.
Before I digress too far, your motivation for teaching beginners can alleviate the stress caused by the expense of acquiring and maintaining beginner school horses.
Making a case for beginner horses as the foundation and seedbed of your business, even if your program includes intermediate and advanced riders, is straightforward. Beginner horses determine whether riders progress and provide them with the skills to become horse owners. Investing in lesson horses is an investment in your business.
Beginner horses serve as the hands-on ambassadors of our riding programs. The better the beginner horse, the more successful your riding lesson program is likely to be.
Sometimes, instructors may borrow or arrange to use horses for lessons. However, this often proves impractical due to the temporary nature of the arrangement, lack of control, or the horse's unsuitability as a lesson horse.
It all depends on your program and goals, but in my opinion, a beginner horse is one of your most valuable assets. They are difficult to find, can nearly teach your lessons for you, and are invaluable.
Your Program
While most programs aren't exclusively for beginners, targeting beginners is prudent. I've found that one out of every ten beginner students becomes the core of an instructor's program—these are the students who want to progress beyond the beginner stage. As they advance, there are more opportunities for instructors to earn from them. They may aspire to compete, own a horse, or even become riding instructors or trainers. Over time, adding new beginners and progressing them to intermediate level forms a core group for your program. Due to life circumstances, this group may shrink as riders progress unless you continually attract new beginners.
Back to the Beginner Horse
I believe beginner horses should remain as such without being asked to do more. This doesn't mean they shouldn't experience variety or be ridden by intermediate riders. If you have a structured plan for your riding program, you'll have criteria dictating what beginners should learn—perhaps divided by semesters, with specific objectives for each phase. For instance, in the first 8 weeks, beginners might learn basic horse care, handling, walking, trotting, and start to canter. The second semester might include cantering and introduction to small jumps. For the sake of simplicity, I've simplified this explanation.
I don't expect my beginner lesson horses to do more than this. Why? Because I want them to excel at teaching the content of my beginner lessons. I want them to be pros at following head-to-tail (keeping the correct spacing between horses, of course!) maintaining steady gaits, being easy to control, willing to separate from other horses, and remaining calm during activities. These horses are the "good eggs" of the horse world.
The Most Important Quality in a Beginner School Horse is Disposition
I'll say it again: disposition is crucial in a beginner horse.
Anyone claiming they learned to ride on a feisty, bolting pony and benefited is likely only saying so because they lacked access to a decent lesson horse—they persevered despite challenges, and I commend them.
The best way for a person to learn to ride is on a horse that allows them to learn necessary skills for their level. This necessitates a horse with a kind, forgiving disposition—patient enough to keep riders safe and ensure their success. Challenges will arise, and while we create beneficial challenges for riders, they don't need the additional challenge of a difficult lesson horse, nor do you.
Spooky or nervous horses do not make good school horses.
A Good Beginner School Horse is Well-Trained
A beginner school horse should not only be proficient at walk, trot, canter, and hand gallop but should execute these gaits smoothly and consistently. Even with slack reins or contact, the horse should maintain the same steady pace when asked. I call this being "stabalized." They should be schooled slightly above the level they'll be used for; for example, if students jump cross-rails, the horse should comfortably and quietly navigate a 2-foot course.
The horse should be acclimated to both indoor and outdoor arenas, with ample experience on trails and in fields. Beginner horses should be the first horses your students ride outside the arena, and if they attend beginner shows, they must be comfortable away from home.
From a mounted training standpoint, a good beginner horse should tolerate exercises, loss of balance, riding in two-point or without stirrups—anything you plan to do with your students. This includes games or paired riding exercises.
On the ground, a beginner horse should be a saint: easy to catch, lead, groom, and have hooves picked up. No pulling back, good in ties or cross-ties, and easy to tack up, even for fumbling hands when bridling.
If a horse kicks, bites, won't stand still, or can't be tied, it shouldn't be considered a beginner horse. If he bucks, bolts, balks, rears, kicks or bites at other horses, take him out of your beginner program.
If you have a horse with the most important quality of a good school horse—good disposition—you can do much of the training for your program yourself. You can have advanced riders work with them and introduce them to exercises like "around the world" or "toe touches," but avoid using such horses for new beginners until they're ready.
Gaits
Your beginner lesson horses should have gaits that are smooth enough for riders to control their own bodies. Horses with long strides or bouncy trots and canters can intimidate beginners.
Size
Let's put riders on horses that are appropriately sized for them. It's intimidating to ride an enormous animal where you feel like an ant on its back or can't even pick up its feet with both hands. The general rule is a horse should carry no more than 20% of its body weight, including saddle and equipment. Beginners pose a greater challenge for horses due to their lack of balance. Don't hesitate to establish weight rules for lessons. It's acceptable to determine them for each horse if necessary. For teaching large adults, find appropriately sized lesson horses, ensuring they're well-trained.
For instance, with a 1,000-pound horse, multiply .20 by 1,000. That gives you 200 pounds. Subtract the weight of the saddle and pads, I'll use 25 pounds as an example.You're left with 175 pounds. To account for a beginner's balance, calculate .15 by 1,000 pounds to get 150 pounds. Subtract the tack, and you have 125 pounds.
Final Thoughts
I have more thoughts on what makes a good lesson horse, which I'll cover in a future article addressing the rising costs of school horse care and where to trim waste. With over 3,000,000 babies born each year, there's endless potential for beginner riders. This isn't a market likely to dry up quickly!
Here's to giving great riding lessons to super students,
Barbara Ellin Fox
